A leaky basement can be the biggest problem if you do not take it seriously. If you have a leaky basement you are in trouble as it can damage
furniture, dry wall and framing. About 60% of American houses have leaky basements. These are caused due to seepage, runoff or condensation.

• Condensation: occurs in basement walls and floor as puddles and water drops. This problem is due to warm air meeting with insulated pipes or walls. If you keep
  the temperature warm inside during winter, this will prevent basement condensation. You van also use foam insulation to keep cold pipes free from
  condensation. With the help of a waterproof coating, you can make the walls concrete waterproof.

• Run off: The major cause of basement damage can be rainwater and melted snow. The run off water comes from the soil and stops at the
  foundation base. Make sure that the water runs off from your house to prevent these types of problems. You need to make your ground 1 inch sloped
  for every 1 foot. You can solve this problem by sealing the basement walls and patching the cracks in the foundation. There should not be any water
  collecting below grade. Patch all cracks in the driveway.

• Subsurface seepage: When the ground outside your basement wall becomes oversaturated, some water may seep in through the base of the wall. The best way to avoid this
  is to grade the ground down and away from your house.

A leaky basement is a fundamental problem and must be fixed immediately.

Cracks are a common problem and can be found in basements, walls or in the garage floors. These cracks can be a big problem, leading you to spend a lot
of money on repairing them if left unattended. The water seeping through can damage your expensive belongings, but it also invites other troubles such
as mold or mildew. Fixing this crack is a quite difficult task. In the past, inefficient solutions such as application of patching compounds like
silicone or caulking were commonly employed. For a complete and lasting repair however, a professional repair company should be contacted as they will
be equipped with the tools and materials to get the job done right.

A technique called crack injection is used. First, holes are drilled along the crack in the concrete reaching right through to the soil, spaced about
two to three inches apart. Then plastic injection ports are either inserted into the holes, or fixed on to the wall’s surface using appropriate sealer.
Sealer is then applied over the rest of the crack remaining exposed.

After the concrete has dried, the cracks should be injected. A dual cartridge gun is used to do this. The gun has two tubes to inject materials. A
mixed straw is screwed to the end after the tubes are inside the gun. Substance from the two different tubes gets mixed and moves through the threaded
straw after the gun is pumped. They come in liquid form and start reacting after they are mixed. The Polyurethane resin gets converted into a flexible
substance. Start injection with the bottom port. Pump slowly, so as to avoid creating excessive pressure (eye protection should be worn as a
precaution). When product starts coming out of the next port above, a cap is inserted into the port being injected. Repeat procedure until all ports
are filled. The topmost port should only require 2 – 4 pumps

Every one wants to keep their basement safe, clean and dry so as to enhance its functional importance. Basements in the house play an important role.
They are mainly used to store unwanted objects in your house. They can also be used as an additional living area. However if there are cracks in the
concrete that let water seep into the basement, then mold will develop. Your basement will also be at risk of being overtaken by insects. It also
attracts insects that make the space completely impossible to enter.

A vertical crack in the basement walls is not a structural problem in the foundation. PU crack injections can stop water seepage and repair the walls.

Advantages of using PU crack injections to repair foundation cracks are as follows:

• PU injections remain flexible.
• Will effectively stop water from leaking into the building more effectively.

· It is not easy to determine that whether it is a structural problem only by looking at the crack. Help of an expert is required find it out. If
the crack is wider than half an inch than it can be a sign and needs repair. It is surely a structural problem if it is a horizontal crack. If the
crack runs diagonally starting from the inside corner then there is structural problem. Again, if the crack is less than half inch in size it is not a
structural issue.

· Engaging an independent engineer is a good option to find out the nature and extent of the problem. They will offer remedies.

· Injecting flexible resin can repair basement walls. Epoxies generally stay in liquid form. They consist of mixture two components. When these
components mix they produce a flexible and durable substance. It has high compression and after it is injected, the problem of leakage is controlled.

· Injecting flexible resin in the cracks is quite a simple process. Plastic injection ports are installed and sealed on the wall every 3 to 6
inches with the help of a special paste. After attaching these ports the special paste is applied on parts of the crack. This ensures that the resin is
filled in the crack and between the foundation and the soil while the process of curing.

· PU is then injected into the cracks. It is injected through the crack from the lowest port. The PU cartridge is attached to a mixer and then it
is inserted into the port. After injecting it the PU flows over the crack’s outer surface. It is injected into all the ports. The liquid PU flows into
the tiniest crevices. It also flows out from the back portion of the crack before curing. Thus, use of PU can be very beneficial for repairing
foundation crack.

Essentially, a basement is a room beneath a floor, with walls that are completely or partially below grade (below ground level). The basement rests on a foundation. The way the foundation needs to be laid is determined by aspects of the individual building site but there are universal requirements: All foundations need to be strong, stable, and dry.

STEP (1)

The basement construction process begins with excavation to the depth determined by the level of the water table, the climate, and the soil conditions at the building site. The first elements to be constructed are footings, to provide the structural support for the walls. Because they must bear the weight of the entire structure, footings are almost always made of poured concrete. First, trenches are dug to accommodate the footings. Normally, footings are twice the width of the walls and as deep as they are wide. Next, boards are set in the trenches to serve as forms for the wet concrete (the boards are removed once the concrete has set).

In order to reinforce the foundation, steel reinforcing bar (“rebar”) is embedded in the concrete. This helps stabilize the concrete during settling shifts and during mechanical vibration which is used to eliminate air pockets. Metal anchors are also embedded into the poured footings to help secure the walls.

STEP (2)

Erecting the basement (foundation) walls is next. The walls have to be strong, stable, and dry. There are several materials from which the walls can be constructed, each with different cost and performance factors. For overall strength, poured concrete is the ideal choice—the thicker, the stronger. The concrete is poured inside forms—either wood or metal—with steel rebar embedded for reinforcement. Forms can have insulating features included which can help with temperature regulation. Poured concrete also has the advantage of being seamless, thereby providing a desirable moisture barrier.

STEP (3)

The third feature to be constructed is the slab. This is the floor of the basement. In addition to the requirement of strength, it is essential that the slab be level. To ensure this, a layer of leveling sand—usually at least 4 inches thick— is established under the slab. The slab is usually at least 4 inches thick, flat, level, and dry.

Basements may require individual modifications depending on climate and conditions of the site. Waterproofing membranes and/or insulation can be added to the exterior of the basement walls. Moisture transfer is always a consideration with basement construction, and any precautions which help minimize moisture transfer are advantageous.

Once the walls and slab have been completed, it is time to backfill up to the walls in the excavation site. Before adding any material to the outside of the construction, however, it is necessary to stabilize the walls with supports from the inside. If significant ground moisture is anticipated, a layer of gravel may be necessary to aid in drainage and stability. After gravel is packed around the footing and lower margins of the wall, other granular material can be backfilled against the exterior of the walls. The superficial layer of topsoil must be below the top of the basement walls to ensure that moisture and insects do not penetrate the house.

By following sound engineering guidelines you can ensure that your basement is a secure, warm, dry, space which will enhance your home’s value and be a source of satisfaction for you as a homeowner.

Despite their solid and immovable appearance, foundations undergo incremental movements. Changes in the weather can cause varying degrees of expansion and contraction of the soil surrounding the foundation. Variations in rainfall influence the movement of groundwater around the footing. Even differences in the house above the foundation can affect it in minor ways.

A properly designed and constructed foundation can withstand the stress of minor movements. If the stress exceeds the tolerance of the foundation material, however, cracks develop to relieve the stress. The formation of a crack establishes a kind of flexible joint, but this flexibility comes with a potential problem—water seepage. Obviously, water seepage needs to be stopped. If the original condition is reestablished by simply plugging the crack with concrete, subsequent movement of the foundation can lead to reopening of the same crack or the creation of new cracks to relieve the stress.

Predictable ongoing changes in temperature and humidity as well as settling of the ground supporting the footing will always stress the foundation to some degree and it will respond by moving ( forming cracks) to relieve the stress. Any alteration of the foundation (repairing cracks) must make allowance for such movement. The solution is to create a seal over the crack that is both waterproof and flexible. The ideal seal acts as a control joint, accommodating both expansion and shrinkage of the crack. Crack Buster has a product that does precisely this—successfully seals foundation cracks permanently.

Find out about this exceptional product at www.crackbuster.com.

As we all know, no home is perfect. Whether your home is old or newly constructed, it is prone to developing cracks in the foundation due to various
reasons. After construction, every building shifts into position.

You can find cracks in your homes either in its structural components or cosmetic finish and most of them do not really affect the structural integrity
of the building. However it is in your interest to avoid water seepage into the basement and accompanying health related problems. Those living in your
home could develop conditions such as allergies and asthma attacks due to the molds and mildews formation in damp environments.

There are different types of foundation cracks:

Shrinkage Cracks
- Shrinkage cracks usually occur in newly poured foundation. This happens during the process of shrinking and curing of the concrete. Though shrinkage
cracks are not structurally damaging, they result in water seepage into the basement. Shrinkage cracks in a poured concrete foundation can be
recognized with ease.

• Shrinkage cracks are usually smaller than 1/8th inches.
• They are vertical occurring only in the wall of the foundation and do not extend along the structure.
• Usually, you can find shrinkage cracks in the centre of the third length of the foundation wall.

Horizontal Cracks
- Horizontal cracks can be found in houses that have a basement, usually on the concrete wall of the foundation. If you locate a horizontal crack that
runs through the foundation along the basement length this usually indicates a major problem where the foundation is unable to bear the weight of the
soil surrounding it. The crack is a result of the huge pressure applied on the foundation by the soil.

Foundation walls are usually built in such a manner that they take enormous pressure loads. However due to any reason, if your foundation develops a
full length horizontal crack, then it is time to act immediately and seal the crack.

Settlement Cracks
- Settlement cracks in the foundation are generally vertical and extend completely through the structure. The cracks usually follow the mortar joints
in walls made of bricks.

Short-term one time settlement is the cause of most of the settlement cracks we find. It is very rare to find a building affected by ongoing
settlement. If you are planning on purchasing a home, it is essential to take a home inspector with you to identify if the settlement is ongoing or one
time before closing the deal.

You can differentiate between one time and ongoing settlement with the help of the settlement crack size. If the crack is larger in size, it is most
probably due to an ongoing movement. If, on the other hand, the crack is sized lesser than ¼ inches, then it may be due to a one-time crack.

You can also identify a settlement crack with the direction of movement. For instance, a vertical crack is a typical example of a settlement crack. You
can find crevices and bumps fitting like puzzle pieces.

You must be concerned about ongoing movement if the settlement crack previously repaired re-cracks. These are some of the major
types of foundation cracks. After identifying them, it is important to call in experts or repair them with the help of our top quality DIY foundation
crack repair kits.

Concrete is a mixture of sand, gravel, and cement (the bonding ingredient). Cement is a complex mixture of various mineral oxides (calcium, silicon, aluminum, iron, and magnesium), crushed into a fine powder. These elements can be combined in a variety of ways to create a variety of cements. When water is mixed with the powder, a chemical reaction (hydration) takes place which causes the mixture to harden. The slurry of wet cement can be poured into a form and dried to a strong solid in the shape of that form. To make concrete, sand and gravel are mixed into the cement slurry, in varying proportions, depending on the intended use and appearance of the finished products.

Because of its availability and durability, concrete is the most widely used building material in the world. It is also one of the strongest building materials available in terms of compression (the pushing force). Concrete can have a compressive strength of more than 7,000 psi. In contrast, it is relatively weak in tensile strength (the stretching force). In order to improve the tensile strength of a concrete structure, steel reinforcing bars, “rebar,” and metal netting are embedded into the poured concrete. This is done because steel is equally strong in tension and compression, and can provide the strength in tension that concrete alone would lack. Although steel is excellent in terms of strength, as a basement building material, it has the significant drawback of being subject to corrosion—by being embedded in the concrete, it is protected from corrosion. Concrete is strong, won’t rust, and is comparatively affordable.

Concrete can be preformed into hollow blocks (nominally 16” x 8” x 8”) for ease in handling. Because concrete blocks are lighter, already dry, and require no forms or setting machinery, construction can be undertaken by the strong and ambitious homeowner. In order to improve the sturdiness of the foundation, concrete and rebar can be added to fill in the hollow parts of the blocks. Also, the seams have to be thoroughly sealed in order to prevent water leakage.

Pouring concrete requires the use of forms, which can be pre-fabricated or built on site. Large prefabricated forms may require a crane to install them. In typical home construction, poured concrete walls are usually from 6” to 10” thick. The thicker the wall, the better it is at insulating from sound as well as thermally. Another significant advantage of poured concrete is that the walls are seamless, thus they are drier. Because a dry basement is a useful basement, the superior moisture prevention factor is important.

Poured concrete walls—especially when reinforced with rebar—are stronger than comparable block walls. Because of it’s high strength, poured concrete can withstand massive loads and remain structurally sound for a hundred years!

There are several ways in which water can damage basements. Although the presence of water is necessary for the proper mixing, hardening, and curing of concrete, continuous movement of water over concrete can lead to its deterioration. Once concrete has begun to deteriorate, the damage can accelerate, ultimately compromising the integrity of the foundation.

The presence of water in a basement can also create a health hazard. The moist environment is conducive to mildew and mold growth. Mold spores are always present in the air but require moisture to grow. The cool, damp basement is an ideal environment for molds to flourish. Once mold becomes established it can affect the air quality, triggering allergies or more severe reactions.

Leakage of water into the basement makes the space less functional. The high humidity can be harmful to stored items such as papers or clothing, and it can make the environment unsatisfactory for working or recreation. From a financial standpoint, a wet basement detracts from the value of a home. Repairing foundation cracks to prevent water seepage is a sound investment in the structural safety, occupant health, and usefulness of a home.

For effective solutions to foundation cracks, visit www.crackbuster.com.

There is always a degree of settlement involved in any building project. The thing that a homeowner is interested in is to what degree will the foundation settle. Tiny shifts can be easily dealt with but large scale settlement can be disastrous.

There are many sources of settlement. Some originate from faulty mechanics during the building process (improper mixing of the concrete, curing the concrete too rapidly, premature backfilling against the foundation, etc.). The majority, however, have to do with the soil conditions at the site—especially directly underneath the footings.

Any time soil is disturbed—as it is in the excavation process—there will always be adjustment until the soil comes to a new stable configuration. Anyone who has played in a sandbox knows that it makes a big difference whether or not you pack the sand tightly in the pail before turning it over. In a similar way, soil needs to be compacted at the time the foundation footing is laid. Sometimes, even properly compacted soil can develop voids. If a foundation is laid over soil which contains significant organic material, the organic material can decay, leaving pockets in the soil.

Most settlement problems stem from extremes in moisture conditions under the footings. If the movement of water through the soil under the foundation is not uniform, isolated shifts can occur in the soil supporting the footings. Supporting soil can be eroded out from under footings by water movement. Moisture can collect unevenly beneath the footings, and the wet regions could be subject to frost heaves.

Because some degree of settlement always occurs, there are always some stresses on the foundation. These stresses due to settlement often cause cracks in the foundation but not all cracks that develop in the foundation are due to settlement. Fortunately, cracks that result from foundation settlement are often easily recognized and dealt with.

Prior to building, you can minimize settlement by studying the building site, testing the soil, and properly planning excavation for the foundation. But what about after you’ve built? Chances are, you’re not dealing with a “Leaning Tower of Pisa” and there are effective steps you can take to address the results of settlement on your existing foundation.